Natural Kettle Dyed Designer Alpaca Yarn

History of Natural Dyes in Peru

Textiles have played a major role, both practical and ceremonial, in Andean culture for thousands of years. In the rugged, mountainous highland areas, native peoples domesticated wild versions of the alpaca and llama in order to use their soft and warm fleece. In other areas, both along the Pacific Coast and in the Amazon Basin, indigenous people made textiles with plant fibers. As their skill in textiles increased through the generations, Andean peoples developed methods of dyeing this fiber with materials procured from “Pachamama,” or Mother Nature. Before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors five centuries ago, natural dyeing had advanced to an amazing degree- able to produce hundreds of rich, long-lasting colors by using plants, insects and minerals. The advent of synthetic dyes in the 19th century was the beginning of a long decline for natural dyes. Synthetic dyes are less expensive and easier to produce than natural dyes. However, as with many synthetic imitations, these artificial dyes are not as rich and beautiful as the original, natural dyes. In addition, an entire body of knowledge necessary for the creation and use of natural dyes was discarded in the name of technological progress. Fortunately, some natural dyeing traditions survived in remote areas of the Andes. It is these unique, age-old traditions that PurelyAlpaca hopes to maintain by working with designers who collaborate with natural dye artisans in Peru to offer items like our gorgeous line of 100% Baby Alpaca Natural Dye Yarn

The Artistry of Natural Dyes

There is an artistry to creating and using natural dyes. It can be compared to the skill of a master chef, the mastery of an artist over his medium, or the subtlety of creating fine wine- endeavors requiring knowledge, experience and an eye for the nuances of working with organic materials.

Most natural dyes rely on plants and their constituent parts- stems, leaves, bark, nuts, shells, fruits and roots- so the process is never exact. The potency of the dyestuffs may be influenced by numerous factors- season when harvested, climatic variation (less or more than average rain, temperature, etc), age of the plants at harvest, time since harvesting, source of water used for dyeing- the list goes on. The other main component in dyeing is the textile fibers which are to be dyed. Alpaca, wool, cotton, etc., are themselves organic substances with unique, variable properties which influence the outcome of the dye process. Just as with cooking, art, and fine wine, the difference between success and disaster, beautiful and ordinary, intentional and accidental can be very small. The master dyer applies his thorough knowledge of dyestuffs and fibers to the process of natural dyeing. The result is an artistic expression in the form of a beautifully dyed yarn or textile.

When looking at naturally dyed yarn, there are visible features that anyone can appreciate. First is the richness of color. Richness does not imply intensity. Many synthetic fibers, like acrylic and polyester, show off bright, garish colors full of intensity, but lacking in richness. Specifically, rich colors have depth, luster and an overall pleasing appearance. In addition, natural dyes impart a slightly uneven coloration called “variegation.” Variegation results from an irregular absorption of the dye by the yarn fibers. It can also occur due to the intrinsic variability of organic materials as described above. This irregularity may be enhanced or diminished according to the whims or needs of the dyer. Variegation is a desirable feature of dyeing yarn by hand in small batches using organic dyes. Overall, organically dyed yarn has a complexity and uniqueness that is not possible with industrially dyed yarn. The attention and love that goes into to the natural dye process gives the fiber, yarn or textile character and makes it special.

Natural Dyes of Peru

Peru is located on the west coast of South America, just south of the equator. Its coastline is approximately 1400 miles long. There is a narrow coastal strip which is extremely dry- some areas almost never receive rainfall. Further inland from the coastal strip, the Andes Mountains rise precipitously- marked by rugged and deep canyons. Many of the surviving textile and dyeing traditions are found in these mountains. Although more rainfall occurs in the mountains, it is generally a dry climate. For this reason, many of the dyestuffs come from hardy, drought resistant plants like sage, eucalyptus, rabbit brush, and cactus (see cochineal). However, other dyes come from plants and trees growing near water sources or with agricultural uses like walnut, onion, arnica, blue corn, and indigo. Finally, the rocky terrain of the Andes is prime habitat for many species of lichens. Many of these lichens can be used as dyestuffs. Dyestuff gatherers take care NOT to remove these lichens by the roots, as they can take many years to grow back.

One of the most important dyes in history comes not from a plant, but from an insect. The cochineal bug (Dactylopius Coccus) thrives on the prickly-pear cactus (Nopalea Coccinellifera). Cochineal, when processed for dyeing, produces a deep and true red color. This true red, difficult if not impossible to obtain from other natural dyes, was in high demand for centuries- not just in Central and South America- but all over the world. In addition, by using different dye methods and mordants (substances which “fix” the dye to the fiber), cochineal can produce an extraordinary range of colors- bright orange, pink, salmon, many shades of red, scarlet, and even purple. The dye is extracted by crushing the female insects and subjecting them to steam or heat. A large amount of insects is required to obtain a small amount of dye- an expensive process.

The other major natural dye with historical importance still being used in Peru is indigo. Indigo is a rich and deep blue dye of exceptional permanence and comes from several leguminous plants of the genus Indigofera. Until the invention of synthetic indigo in the 19th century, natural indigo was an important global commodity used extensively by the textile and apparel industry (think “blue jeans”). Extracting the blue dye from the indigo plant is a multi-step process involving fermentation and oxidation. Because of this, using indigo successfully requires skill and experience. Many shades of blue may be obtained by varying the time and oxidation of the yarn in the dye bath.

Preserving Traditions

The natural environment provides all of the materials (dyestuffs, natural textile fibers) necessary to produce a vast number of rich colors. The indigenous peoples of Peru have been living in this environment for thousands of years, so have had time to discover and incorporate the materials that Pachamama (Mother Nature) provides to them. This interaction between Andean peoples and the organic materials required for natural dyes is an excellent example of a sustainable use of natural resources. Encouraging the use of natural dyes also preserves a body of knowledge unique to pre-modern Andean culture. Nevertheless, continuing the use of natural dyes in the future is precarious.

The arrival of European conquerors in the 16th century resulted in the destruction and loss of many aspects of Andean culture, including many textile traditions. The invention of synthetic dyes in the 19th century further eroded the use and knowledge of natural dyes. Finally, in our current age of homogenous globalization and economies-of-scale, the techniques and knowledge necessary to create and use natural dyes are in danger of becoming lost forever. By purchasing and appreciating naturally dyed yarn and textiles, we provide an economic benefit to Andean people who create these special items. Thus, we ensure that this special artistry does not perish.